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Assisted Braking Belay Devices

By on Mar 4, 2011 in Uncategorized | 0 comments

The UKC newsletter popped up in the inbox today and they had an excellent review of the new generation of “smart” belay devices. For years we’ve been used to seeing the good old Grigri at climbing walls, sports crags and instructed venues. It’s quite worrying to think it’s been kicking around for the last 20 odd years. However, a few months ago I met Eddy. Eddy? Who; might you ask, is Eddy? That’d be Eddy le Rid. Edelrid have put a potentially bone breaking device on the market as well. Bone breaker… does that mean it doesn’t work? Not at all: but you wouldn’t want to drop one on a rock shoed toe! Assisted braking belay devices – UKC from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo. A couple of the boys at the Foundry have put together a video review of five contenders for the money in your wallet. They have reviewed – complete with “death defying” falls; the new Petzl Grigri 2; The above mentioned Eddy from Eddy le Rid; the Click Up from Climbing Technology; the Smart Belay from Mammut and the Cinch from Trango. These are all belay devices with the auto lock function and they all seem to work, if there’s been no smoke and mirrors in the video production 😉 What is useful in this video is the comparison of the 5 devices and their subtle differences in operation. Take a look and get your wallets ready! You can get the full lowdown at UKC’s Gear Review section....

So How Strong is a Rock Climbing Rope

By on Mar 1, 2011 in Uncategorized | 0 comments

I came across this little video snippet explaning how strong a rock climbing rope actually is. Funny how the cousins across the pond still insist on working in pounds! There’s a nice little bit of physics tucked in here as well, which explains what those little KN labels across all your load bearing gear mean. 1033941494 In plain English, what that means is that 1KN is the force of (i.e. the weight of) 100kg of stuff. Now I only weigh around 72 Kg in my shreddies, so my weight is well less than a1 KN. A lot of load bearing climbing gear is rated at upwards of 22 KN. For instance my nice shiny new climbing rope is a beal cobra 1/03/2011